I haven’t surfed in twenty years. And I haven’t surfed well ever. But after so many years of believing I couldn’t try surfing because my contact lenses would pop out and I wouldn’t be able to see a blessed thing … I just happened to bump into a old surfer today who said that he had no trouble with his contacts popping out … and that if mine did pop out that he would give me a ride home so I wouldn’t have to drive blind. That was all the encouragement I needed. I grabbed the board he loaned me and headed in past the breaking surf.
Despite having skateboarded for a lifetime when much younger and still having that board balance … I still wasn’t able to stand up on the board today. But man … having the opportunity to be out there in the surf just trying to catch my balance in the midst of the huge natural power of the waves … it was beautiful. I would even say that it was in a way spiritual. There were so many other surfers that were more experienced and that could have been an insecurity that I focused on … but in the moment when each wave came there was no room to focus on what skills anyone else had and what skills I didn’t have … there was only room to focus on and be grateful for my own ride.